Warhammer: Dwarf Lord

Been while since my last post. Today I present to you my Dwarf Lord. Despite my frustration with the way GW is treating the old Dwarfs and older models in general, that is not going to stop me from painting cool figures! I picked up this model used from eBay for about four dollars already assembled. The upside? I like the model. The downside? The model is pretty much no longer useful as a Dwarf Lord since that particular warscroll is only available in the Dwarf Compendium. Since it’s not available on GW’s AoS app, it seems like the Dwarf Lord cannot be used in matched play. Disappointing, but he could be used as a variant of a Warden King!

To begin, let’s start with the paints I used:

Notice a lot of P3 paints? I played a lot of Warmachine in Mk I and II. I had acquired a decent collection of paints which have stayed good over the years. Some of them I had to toss but for the most part the remainder just needed some good mixing or water added. I am working slowly to get a Citadel paint collection.


I started with a primer of grey. Pretty basic stuff.


Beginning with skin (since it is normally the lowest point on most models, I used the Vallejo Basic Skintone on the exposed lip under the beard and the one visible hand. It could be argued that the hand was actually in a glove due to the way the sleeve is setup but I wanted to imagine this Lord rolls his sleeves up before a battle.


After the skin comes the beard. I decided to do a greying black beard. This Dwarf Lord has seen his fare share of battles and his long grey beard will be proof of that. I basecoated the beard in P3 Thalmar Black.


Next came the silver bits. That would include a portion of the helm and some small sections of chainmail at the bottom of the model underneath his beard. These portions were done in P3 Pig Iron. His axe blades will also be silver but I did not paint the axe at this point.


The cloak was painted in Gnarls Green. I wanted a deep ‘foresty’ green and this color fit the bill.

The fur trim on the cloak was painted in P3 Beast Hide brown. Looks really great with the green.


Time for more details! I painted the shield in P3 Exile Blue to match the rest of my armies theme. His tunic sleeve and boots was painted with P3 Bloodtracker Brown and the axe head and shaft was painted with P3 Cold Steel.


Even more details! All the gold bits are done in P3 Rhulic Gold. I wanted to mix up his little pieces of flair so I painted a few silver with P3 Cold Steel. The bottom portion of his chainmail tunic was painted with Citadel Hashut Copper while his faceguard was painted with Cold Steel and the eyebrows painted with Vallejo Bronze.

Now for the fun part. Washing! All silver bits were washed with Citidel Nuln Oil. The skin was washed with Citidel Reikland Fleshshade while everything else was washed in Agrax Earthshade. I am really please with how the fur turned out. Once the washes were dry it was time to drybrush.


His beard was first drybrushed with P3 Greycoat Grey. Once that dried I went over it with P3 Ironhull Grey. Looking wiser already!

With the model done to my liking (Ended up not using a few colors) I decided I would varnish. I always use the gloss varnish first. The Vallejo brand varnishes are great and dont require a lot to get the job done. Once the first coat of varnish has dries I got over it once more with the matt varnish to bring the shine down to a reasonable level.

Once dry, I used Elmer’s white glue on the base and dipped it into a small container I have filled with small rocks and sand. Allow to dry to at LEAST 2 hours before attempting to paint on it.


Once dry, I use P3 Bloodtracker Brown. The paint looks thick because it is. The brown is meant to simulate dirt and soil. So I use it to fill in the gaps of the rock and sand.


It’s hard to tell, but after the basecoat brown I begin to dry brush P3 Gun Corp Brown on the base. This simulates shadows on the rocks and while does not look like much of a change, really helps the final product. After that I drybrush P3 Beast Hide for more brown differentiation.


Lastly, I drybrushed P3 Bone Jack to highlight the rocks and top layer of soil.


For those of you, like me, who hate working with static grass but love the way they look; these wilderness tufts by Army Painter are amazing. They are already stuck together in small bushes so all you need to do is use some tweezers to pick them up, dip them in a small amount of paint and apply directly to the model.

Once done, paint the round portion of the base back to black and I am DONE!

Hope you enjoyed! I am very open to constructive criticism. I am by no means an expert at painting and am always looking to improve my skills. Please feel free to let me know where I can improve!